The Futaleufú River, in the heart of the Patagonia, is one of the rivers with the best rapids on the planet. This is why hundreds of tourists and Chileans visit it every summer. Futaleufú promises to become the worldwide capital of white water sports.
I arrived at Futaleufú worn out and anxious after hours of traveling on an old bus. Finally I was at one of the most important areas of the Chilean Patagonia; a remote niche where Hollywood stars such as Antonio Banderas have purchased a property. I had arrived at one of the fastest and most heavily flowing rivers in the world. I could now understand why 20,000 tourists visit this place every summer with one, crazy, purpose in mind: risking their lives descending the river!
According to the rafters and kayakers, the Futaleufú River is among some of the top rivers in the world, such as the Colorado River in the U.S.A, the Zamezi in Zimbabwe, the Tsang Po in China and the Franklin in Australia. For this reason the 2000 Worldwide Championship of Rafting took place in this quiet and friendly south Chilean town. Due to the high frequency of tourists excursions and adventure weeks are charged in American dollars, not in local Chilean pesos.
The Futaleufú River begins in Argentina and by the end of summer reaches a peak width of 110 meters. It has several grade five rapids on a scale of difficulty established between one to six, which makes it almost humanly impossible to navigate – run, make an attempt, risk it!
Local inhabitants call the river The Futa, and in the last ten years they have seen the effect of the torrents have on life, claiming six in recent history. Normally intense turquoise and quiet, the Futa is not to be underestimated.
Today I’m at the Shangri La of Rivers. The staff at Chile Expeditions make the dangers of navigating this river very clear, with their years of experience and prestige it is advice to be heeded; There are other expedition companies; Earth River and Bio Bio Expeditions, but there’s one difference – Chile Expeditions belongs to Chris Spellius, an elderly Olympic medallist, who initiated tourism to the river by descending it in kayak alone, in the mid 1980’s.
Chris is ready for anything; his appearance is somewhat rugged, rough shaven and with hands like enormous paddles his resume is full of ‘grade fives’. There is nothing for it. I must join the group who are about to throw caution to the wind & really get to know the famous and feared Futa. The plan was to descend the most popular area, called ‘bridge to bridge’, a complex circuit that consists of at least nine rapids: eight of which are grade four and one of grade five, with graphic names like Shark and Cazuela!
The group that I’m with consists of a guy from Germany, four Americans (who have all completed a course on extreme nature adventures), and myself. Representing Chile Expeditions are, four Canadians, professional rescuers who will descend in kayak, an American who is in charge of our balsa, and a Chilean who will drive the cataraff, a giant balsa that is the latest and most modern rescue balsa. So, in total, 4 guides for 5 tourists – hopefully this helps you to understand what we are all getting into?!
- “Where are the places where one is most likely to fall out?” I asked Chris at the end of our first chat on security.
- “Ufff. In various places” he responded without a trace of sarcasm.
The river is at a high level and the section that we will navigate includes the Mundaca, an awesome grade five rapid that terminates at the base of a gigantic rock. The ‘line of security’ through which we must descend passes between various rocky places, at a decline of 30º – totally frightening! Here the river loses its turquoise color and becomes absolutely white. The river currents are chaotic, there is foaming water everywhere, the noise is deafening, it’s impossible to distinguish the supposed ‘path’ which we are to follow.
One of the kayakers descends first, for moments he disappears under the waves. The next kayaker follows, who, with precise movements, evades a tremendous rock that divides the river in two. Now it’s my turn. The rescuers in the cataraff keep a close eye on me and, in a matter of seconds, I am in the fight. And boy what a fight! I paddled with all my strength – I can hear the instructions “Right-ahead, left-ahead”, shouted to me from the guide at the top of his lungs. I, like the rest, paddle desperately to the right and ahead. Next he shouts “left-reverse, left-reverse” and we attempt to steer the balsa back and to the left. These movements are critical, especially when you know that it’s with these maneuvers that your life hangs.
Seconds feel like hours, there is water everywhere, I bounce forward and back, up and down, I feel like I’m inside a washing machine and if I don’t hang on desperately I’ll be ejected. Suddenly one of the group falls. Or almost! He loses control of one leg and then the other, his companion grabs him by the shoulders and shoves him back into place. He’s saved! Speedily, the Mundaca is behind us.
“Incredible! Incredible! I feel like I am breathing water” comments the American who almost fell overboard, soaked to the bones.
The guides demonstrate their military efficiency in picking up the balsa, loading kayaks, gathering the paddles and planning the next day’s descent. This adventure has a routine of it’s own and I feel like I’ve had my breath taken from me – then we’re told that there will be a chamamé championship, the typical dance of the Patagonia in the Futa discotheque, I suddenly feel refreshed.
- “And will there be beer?” I croaked.
- “Lot’s of beer, barbequed lamb, wine, women, rainbow trout, whatever you want” says Chris.
And believe me, it was true!
Useful information
The most direct way to reach Futaleufú is by car through Argentina. After crossing the Cardenal Samoré Pass, near Osorno Chile, stay in Villa Angostura or in Bariloche,and later drive to Esquel and then re-enter Chile, at least a 2 day trip from Santiago.
You can fly to Puerto Montt and then take a small plane to Chaitén and there take a bus to Chaitén-Futaleufú (3 – 4 hours).
Sleeping facilities
The El Barranco Hotel: an elegant fishing lodge qualified as ‘four fishing rods’ by clients. It has access for handicapped persons. O’ Higgins 172, Phone (65) 721 – 314. www.elbarrancochile.cl
Rio Grande Hostel: with double and triple rooms as well as family apartments. O’Higgins 397; Phone (65) 721320. www.pacchile.com
Eating facilities
Martín Pescador: the best restaurant in Futaleufú, Tatiana Villa Blanca is the Chef. Balmaceda 603. Phone.(65) 721279.
Restaurant Futaleufú: This restaurant offers abundant and low cost meals at all hours. Pedro Aguirre Cerda 407.
More information
www.fataleufu.cl
